Thursday, March 30, 2006

Happy in Hoi An

We've just finished our five day motorbike tour, and it was amazing. Our "Easy Rider" tour guides Hieu and Thien were super enthusiastic and know everything about Vietnam. It started with a visit to Thien's house to meet his family (his father was the first Easy Rider) where they fed us green tea and mulberries and a cup of "medicine" (ginger wine) for me because my tummy hurt that morning. Then to the oldest house in Dalat, Thien's grandmother's, where we met her and his uncle. They took good care of us the whole way; stopped often so our bums didn't get to sore, practically force fed us to make sure we had energy for the next leg of the trip and so we wouldn't get hungry "half night", and made sure to take our picture in front of everything we saw just about.

Most people we pass by have never seen a "foreigner" before, all the kids wave, yell and jump up and down, the adults often stare in awe, and the men all want to know if we're married. Thien said he was jealous because everyone kept telling them how beautiful they thought we were while he got no compliments. Not suprising considering they all covet white skin (all the women are always wear gloves and masks in the sun) but still, a big boost to the self confidence.

The Ho Chi Minh trail was incredible, reminded me alot of driving through B.C. .... but with more jungle. The only disappointment was not seeing any gorillas, but we did get to pet a baby monkey. We learned all about how they make silk, and how they grow everything and what they use it for - rubber, rice, tapioca, mushrooms, coffee, bananas, pineapple, tabacco, peanuts, cashews, lots of other fruit that I can't remember the name of, and I'm sure I left some out. We visited numerous waterfalls, a couple pagodas and war memorials. We ate lots of different food NOT including dog, cat, snake, scorpion, crickets or monkey brains, but they do eat all of that. We saw how they weave baskets, make bricks, coffins and canoes, altogether an informative 5 days, mind you I probably already forgot half of what he told us, should have been taking notes.

We ended up staying in fairly nice guest houses apart from the cockroaches, which we're almost used to. Not really actually, neither of us showered this morning cause there was one in the bathroom, 3 inches long or so, but I managed to pee in there still, all the while keeping my eye on it to make sure it didn't come to close. We almost didn't shower the day before yesterday too cause there was a frog in the bathroom that could jump from floor to ceiling, we had Hieu shoo it out for us though (with a stick, he wouldn't touch it either)

Robin can fill in some of the blanks here, this leg of the journey was to much for one entry. We're in Hoi An now and pretty tired. Our room is really nice with controls for air conditioning, fan and lights on the bedside table, plus satellite T.V.! I don't think I'll leave the room tonight, they also have room service. Wish us luck on not going WAY over budget here. There are tailors everywhere that will make you anything from any fashion magazine at a pretty good price, just thinking about what I could have made makes me giddy.
Love and miss you all,
Carla

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Just a few things to add.....

Robin forgot to mention the most exciting part of our trip today ... free candy! They showed us how they make rice paper, puffed rice (in a big wok with sand to make it heat up really fast), coconut milk and coconut candy. The candy's just like coconut flavored toffee, really yummy, and there were lots of free samples to be had. We also had elephant fish for lunch which was served whole and looked alot like a blowfish, you had to scrape off huge pointy scales to eat it.

We also went to the market in China town yesterday. It was pretty similar to every other market except that they had the first washroom I've seen that's just a room with a small drain in the corner. There's four girls working in the washroom throwing buckets of water into each stall, to rinse I guess, but I'm still left wondering what people do when they have to poo.

Till next time, Carla

A bit of Viet Nam trivia

So Carla and I rose again way too early this morning to partake in a tour of the Mekong Delta. Suposedly gorgeous, and although educational, the trip was far from spectacular. We visited a 'floating market', which we figured was one of those 'typicalVietnam' things to check off our list, when really I saw on boat pilled with watermelon and very little activity. Oh well, I guess we came too late. Although we did continue on to have a nice boat ride on the muddy waters of the Mekong, trying to not let the splashing water get in our mouths for fear of catching some crazy disease...since our guide did tell us they shower and toilet in the river alike. We had lunch, and rode bikes around the countryside or an hour. Nice way too explore, and realised its been eons since I've riden a bike. but like they say...you never forget.

So, I know the burning question on all your minds at the moment is: 'what is the difference between Ho Chi Min City and Saigon?', well, turns out, Saigon is the original name, which is close to the peoples hearts, but, everyone one here likes the president, named Ho Chi Min, so they respect that name when they re-named the city. Although Southerners call it Saigon, and Northerners call it HCMC. So there ya go.

We also learnt that our tour guide, who worked with us over 12 hours today, and works 6 days a week, makes 6.80$ a day. And needs to spend 4$ a day on food and water, basic expenses and still has to account for paying for his 2 meter by 6 meter room that he rents, and cell phone ect. Not an easy life. Aparently no one but foreigners rent Apartments.

It is written on the side of Pagodas and city buildings, "do not speak about politics". Which I found interesting. He said they have limitted ability to speak about their comunist gov't. Not much past "It's good" can you get out of them. There are also relocation fees. You are not allowed to stay in HCMC for more than 1 week. If the police catch you you are fined and sent back to the countryside. you have to apply to live here legally. So really everyone is here illegally. Government employees and police officers are only allowed to have 2 children. if they have more they loose their job. Others are allowed 3 children in the city, more than that is bad, and they cannot afford to keep them anyways. It costs 200$ a semester to go to University. Tips earned by waitresses in the restaurant are shared by all the staff equally...and that means about 12 kitchen guys in a 9 table restaurant. Everywhere is super staffed! It is easier for women to find jobs, they are able to work inside more establishments, like hotels, restaurants and clothig stores, unlike the men. Many men drive cyclos and motor bikes all day, or sell what they can on the streets. Most of the cyclo drivers are very old, and will work till their dying day, so we were informed.

I am ecited to learn more about the country as we travel, especially the North, South devide. It is very different I hear. But so far, I am a huge Vietnam fan, and I don't think that will change. The people are very willing to talk and share their stories, especially the children, who are so full of life, and enjoy the break from their selling of books and cigarettes to sit with you.

later, R

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Ko Phangan, Thailand, Full Moon Party

Bought blacklight paint, seemed to be the theme of the party that night. Us dancing on the balcony overlooking 20, 000 people on the beach dancing, watching fire shows, limboing under fire, and generally making fools of themselves. Carla even fronted on a lady-boy...not so wise.
Convinced Jeff to be made up as the devil that he is. Best paint on the beach!
A devil and a gentleman, bought us roses for valentines day.
Sunrise and we're still kicking. Proceeded back down to the beach after a shnitzel platter and went for a swim in the ocean waves. Who is that guy anyways??
Lara, Carla and Gareth.

Friday, March 17, 2006

Another chance to gloat...

My Angels: Mika and Paige

My gorgeous sister, and her Anthony



sorry kid couldn't resist...

From Ankor Wat to HCMC

As we travelled north to Siem Reap by bus 6 hours the fields greaw lusher and the cows fatter. Such a beautiful landscape. Siem Reap is a tiny city, filled with dust and unbearably hot weather. got up at 5am and left for Ankor Wat to spend the day touring the temples. The group of us along with many others climbed the steep stairs to the top of the main building in Ankor Wat, thought to be the largest religious dedication (this one is to Vishnu) in the world, to observe the gorgeous landscape. The steps are steep, as it is suposed to be dfifficult to reach the level of the Gods. Climbing back down was worse, as the steps are wearing away and the people look like ants at the bottom. It is amazing how much detail went into every inch of the Wats. Many of the Buddha's have been destroyed or are missing from the Khmer Rouge period, but Ankor Wat is the best preserved of them all.

We travelled around until noon by tuk tuk and saw as much as possible, but the heat of day rose to above 40C and it drove us home. Was a very gorgeous place tho, and very spiritual. We also went to the Wt where they filmed Tomb Raider...sweet.

After travelling back to Phenom Penh, Carla and I stayed on in Cambodia for a few more days as the rest of our group travelled to Viet Nam.

We arrived in HCMC(Saigon) yesterday afternoon, after a long bus ride and a hassle free border crossing. And, so far we love Saigon. It is huge and safe and well lit (so don't worry mom). We walked to the night market and fell in love with all the art and clothing (i will be broke by the time we leave!). Today we toured the city by cyclo, kind of like a bicycle with a carriage on the front which fits one person. I felt like a princess. It was a nice way to see everything because it is much slower than the motorbike we are getting used to.

We visited the Fine Art Museum, and were much more impressed by the 100 year old mansion it is housed in then the actual art. Not many of the museums so far have much in the way of English explantions, or explanations at all. Although the last place we went was the War Museum, which was of exceptional quality. With breath-taking photograpy exhibits commending the photograpehers who died in the war. And the size of the bombs were quite impressive. Actually seeing the size of a crater made in a rice paddy by a 3,000 ton bomb is something.

So we've just had our fill of Pho and fresh rolls and are ready to soak up the city night life. Hope you are all out doing the same on this friday night.

cheers, R

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

Where was I...

SoI turns out that internet access has much to be desired here in Phenom Penh. The city is so dusty that the computers get incredibly dirty and are almost imposible to use. Right now th keyboard i am attempting to use wll only register if I pound on the keys, so here i am reverted to using to index fingers to type.

So we found ourslves travelling with two lively English couples, whom we met on the bus into Sihanoukville, Paul and Mandy, and Amy and Adam. And of course Damien is still with us as well, continuously changing his flight home. Cambodia is so different from Thailand. I have never seen skinnier cows in my life, with their ribs protruding, grazing barren land, where as we are approaching the hottest month of the year, and waiting for the rain, there is not much growing.

The people here are very nice, but there are so many it is overwhelming. Whenever you get off the bus, or boat there are dozend waiting to get you into their guesthouse or tuktuk. And the children are so overwhelming. They are everywhere and once you speak to one, they begin to come out of the wood work, with their gorgeous eyes and wonderful banter, selling paintings and bracelets.

We spent 4 days touring Phenom Penh. Staying Lakeside off a skinny gravle road which is the backpaker district. We visited S-21 prison, which was a girls school before te Khmer Rouge takeover on April 17th 1975. When the city was evacuated of all the people, young, old and ill, were sent into the filds to grow rice to trade China for guns. People were starved to death in camps. All intelectuals, former government workers and anyone who was suspected to be working against Pol Pot, were sent to S-21 and tortured, and forced to confess before being taken to the killing feilds and being bludgeoned to death.

The former prison, which is now a museum holds the mugshots of all the prisoners held there, over 3,000 of which only 3 survived. Children as young as 3 were held and killed. The museum still hold the torture equipment and barbed wire, as well as the many tinyholing cells and blood on the floor, which reminds us of the horors of people killing their own. When the Vietnamese liberated PP, they found prisoners starved to death still straped to beds in the prison left for dead, as the Khmer Rouge fled for the mountains. Their bodies are burried in unmarked graves as the last victim of the Khmer Rouge on the schools site. When prisoners were to be executed they were driven blindfolded to the killing fields 8 km outside of Phenom Penh. We visited there as well and witnessed a pagoda housing the sculls of 9oo Khemers. Much of the area is still not unearthed and every rainy season brings more bones and clothing to the surface of the earth,for tourists and Cambodians alike to tread upon.

There are many fields and rivers such as this in Cambodia. It is amazing too to see the people living and farming in the area, as our guide explained, much of thegraves are unearthed because the gov't has not claimed the property away to dig it.

The sadness in this country is amazing, yet the people are so strong and so able to cary on. There is so much hope here as the tourism industry grows and people struggle to create sustainable industries.

I hope you all can get here someday to see for yourselves, there is so much to say. I will post pictures soon, and that will bring some perspective.

-R

Monday, March 13, 2006

A few facts on Cambodia

population: 14million
life expectancy: 57.4 years
Infant Mortality: 96 per 1000 births
number of tourist per year: 1 million
main industry: tourism
bombs dropped on Cambodia: 539,000 tonnes
number of psychiatrists in Cambodia: 20

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Hello everyone.

we are at the moment staying lakeside in Phenom Penh at Happy Guest HOuse, and happy we are. We haven been traveling with a group of Brits since arriving in Cambodia. Two couples. We all met on the bus to Sihanoukville ad have been inseperable evr since. will continue on again to ankor with them as well. Crossing the border ws probably the most stressful hour of my life. Someone immediately stole our bags to transport, and was not returning them without a tip. Everyone tried to 'help'. We were foced to take a car across to the bus cuz the bags went right into the trunk, as the kids surrounded us looking for money. Oh the stress. We missed the boat, so ended up taking a bumpy bus, on the 'new road'. Little aircon. and we crossed on atleast 4 man made ferries. Held max 5 cars. Some were siomply long boats with planks across. I was sure we'd sink.

But got to Sihanokville with no problem and settled in. Our cabby would not take us to the bar we wanted because there are gangs at night suposedly. so afetr the "snake house", literally a restaurant filled with snakes (in the tables too), he took us to a local bar. There is no drinking age here, so it was a young kids bday and we partied and danced for a while. was great. The beaches there were dirty, so didn't stay long. So many children everywhere too. breaks my heart.

Took the bus to PP where we are now, and are staying at a nice place right on the lake....more updates to come. Must un now and catch the sunset.

xxR

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

March 1st : Our last night in Thailand

Hello all,

So this is our last night in tiny Trat of Thailand. Jade is heading to Phuket tomorrow, and Carla, Damien and I will continue on our journey...i believe Carla gave the details yeaterday. Anyhow, not much going on today. Last night we found ourselves at the night market, where you can buy just about any type of food, cooked or uncooked. And take-out comes in tiny plastic bags puffed with air and twisttied. Its so fun trying to guess what each dish is. I love the carts of fruit that they cut up for you on the spot for 10 B, I am addicted to the pineapple. And the mixed fruit shakes that they blend up on the corner for 20B have been keeping me alive.

We ended up at Peir112 for a drink, hoping to sit on the water and catch a breeze. Met the owner, Ming, so friendly. Took us all to the disco. I don't think I ever saw Jade smile so big. It was great. We kidnapped another couple who were at the restaurant too to come with us. We had a great time. Learned to Dance Thai with the locals to a live music and drank Sangsom and Chang as usual. I think the locals were surprised to see us, but all enjoyed our company in the end.

Today was a lazy day. We ran errands and got ready for tomorrow. Found ourself at Cool Corner, an eclectic cafe for three meals today. One very hard working lady, owns, runs, cooks and takes the orders...the only employee. And the food is great! Tons of variety, and the decor is so inviting. Local art, painted recycled furniture, cozy cushions and fish in a little pond in the middle. Just the kind of place I would like to run....maybe someday, but on the beach.

It just started to rain and so I will have to run back to my stuffy room at the POP Guesthouse. Damien and Jade sprang for aircon, so I'll snuggle in for a while and soak up the luxury. If any of you end up in Trat (ie the middle of nowhere and everywhere), I recomend this place. clean, quiet, and run by the most helpful lady I've met so far.

be good, R